Friday 23 November 2012

Living in "The Biggest Estate on Earth"


RELEASED quietly about a year ago is one of those rare Australian books – one that will change how you see your country.

“The Biggest Estate on Earth” by Bill Gammage describes how the lush, verdant and productive character of Australia in 1788 was no accident.  It looked this way because of the systematic and precise way it had been managed by Aboriginal people.

The title comes from the pens of the earliest white explorers.  Account after account described how they found the land undulating with alternate grassy meadows and forest patches, like an English gentleman’s country estate.

They were astonished to discover a land dominated by well-spaced large trees, with a lack of undergrowth and an abundance of long swishing grass.

The way Gammage compiles these colonial impressions, collated for us to read in one place for the first time, is a masterful display of the historian’s art.

He can genuinely alter how we view our land and our past, something that few historians can claim.

A farm without fences.

Gammage describes how this land was managed and moulded by pre-1788 people, how subtle dams were built, water channels cut, and how fire was used to replace plant communities.

Australia, he writes, was a farm without fences.  It challenges what we define as a farmer or a primary producer. 

Bill Gammage (Nat Library Australia, Louis Seselja)
If you replanted the top of every yam you used, so as to create hectares of yam fields, and continually weeded it, as happened on Cape York, I’d call that being a cultivator or a farmer.

If you built fish weirs and constructed wooded channels to guide water, as happened on the Darling River, you were engaging in aquaculture on a grand scale.  And the produce was harvested on a scale that ensured longevity in the food supply over differing seasons and many lifetimes.

“The Biggest Estate On Earth” changed how I see fire in the Australian landscape.  I once derided those with an urge to burn the land as red-eyed fire fanciers.  Gammage has demonstrated how it is an essential part of the landscape and many plant communities, a primary resource and a tool. 

But we tend to use it as a blunt club upon the land, using it in fiery ignorance, whereas it was once used as an instrument of supreme delicacy.

There were many different types of fire, and Gammage describes how just one valley had four different types of fire regimes.  There were “cool” fires, fires used for burns every two years, or every 50 years in a different place.

And they were never allowed by Aboriginal people to roar into the incinerating infernos we know today.

 

First Australians, Scientific Land Managers.

In our lifetimes, the First Australians have gone from being seen as indolent inhabitants of Terra Nullius to prudent and scientific caretakers and cultivators.  “The Biggest Estate On Earth” will significantly add to this evolving realisation.

And “scientific” is not a loose term.  Bill Stanner in 1969 wrote that Arnhem Landers used country classifications “as accurately as any ecologist”.

Gammage writes of one grass plain in a eucalypt forest in north east Victoria (page 72).  It is drained by a small creek, and slopes gently to the west where the creek drops away over a 5-metre cliff.

It is in fact a “brilliantly placed trap”, writes Gammage.  “Wallabies panicked on the plain would flee downslope and crash over the cliff, and the survivors would be ambushed in the narrow gully.”

It was a template repeated across Australia, created by fire and stone axes, and a masterful example of landscape design.

Whenever I take the time to stop and gaze over the landscape, I now try to image what it would have been like pre-1788.  If there are a lot of spindly trees on a north-facing slope, I think it was once a paddock, now being colonised by trees after the loss of the fire-burning regime.

Any large tree with a massive trunk may well have been there for over 200 years, and it is there for a reason.

Still, “The Biggest Estate on Earth” is not an easy book for everyone to read.  It is a catalogue of land practices, and has pile upon pile of detail and examples.  It can be a botanist’s bibliography of plant species and their ecosystems.

But it is a book whose importance and impact will grow and grow over the years.

Take time over Christmas to read it, slowly and with perseverance, and read it somewhere you can look over the Australian landscape.
Follow Chris on Facebook, Twitter or   


Blogarama - The Blog Directory

No comments:

Post a Comment