Friday, 16 November 2012

Small Winemakers, Big Taste


A FIELD of wine bottles stood before me.  Perched on a dozen trestle tables, they seemed alert and just calling out to be popped open.

And you don’t have to just look and drool and wish.  You can try any of them.

Look what we found:  a field of wine at the ASWS
The Australian Small Winemakers Show is held at Stanthorpe each October.

If you’re curious about what other wines are out there, the ones not confined within your local bottle shop, make a date to come and drool and sip. 

It is a wine show birthed from the Stanthorpe Show Society, and it has grown to be a festival-like event to show off the best from small Australian wineries.

Housed in one of the showground pavilions, it is a laidback and intimate wine show.  There is a non-pretentious feel, and is run by grinning and enthusiastic volunteers.

Best of Australian Boutique Wines

What will you have, asked Jim Armstrong, one of the volunteer wine stewards.

I dunno, what do you think?

The Champion White, he said promptly, and poured a taste of the Harewood Estate Wines Mount Barker Riesling 2012.

Jim is a local teacher and grape grower, and an unabashed advocate for Australian riesling.  

“Riesling has been out of favour for a while,” he said, and added with pride that Australian rieslings are “right up there with the very best”.

You’d hardly recognise a modern Australian riesling if you haven’t been on speaking terms for a while.  A taste of the Mount Barker will send your eyebrows up to your hairline in surprise.

The Harewood Estate Riesling is a young, medium-bodied wine with an orange peel and rosy bouquet, but it tasted and behaved in an extraordinary manner.  

Initially smooth over the tongue, it then leapt around the mouth.  And then it stayed and stayed as it slid down the back of the mouth.  More, please.

 Champion Chardonnay and Sparkling

Two other wines created a similar reaction.  The 2006 Chardonnay from Palmer Wines in Western Australia, the Most Successful Exhibitor Trophy winner, was also a keeper.  Who would think a six year old bottle of chardonnay would be as perky as a toddler on red cordial?

It had the body and hue of a semillion, and spread in a melted butter way through the mouth.  But it tasted like a classic Western Australian chardonnay, all lively honeydew, citris and cut grass.  Ooh, I thought, I hope they are still selling it.  More, please.

I still keep thinking about the Ghost Rock Catherine Sparkling Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.  The bouquet of this Tasmanian sparkling wine leapt out and bristled the nose hairs, as I was hit by the smells of molasses and crushed cane.

On the palate there was a sweet yeasty taste and a light fruity body.  It lingered on the tongue, with a warming and long taste in the mouth.  More please, and a ticket to Tassie, too.

I think the best wines evoke a memory, and take you back to a warm, cuddly place.  Palmers and Ghost Rock both did that.

You can’t possibly taste all the wines at the ASWA, though I did try for a while.  The best approach is to be selective.

Try one a variety, try medal winners, or simply try what the stewards recommend.  Don’t feel cheated if you can’t make your way through that field of bottles.

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Friday, 9 November 2012

Refugee Politics: With Heavy But Hardened Hearts


“I hate this issue.  It breaks my heart.  So complicated.”

So streamed this tweet, as a recent Q&A episode on ABC television again tackled the issue of refugee incarceration.

Within that simple tweet lies the intense but contradictory strands of a newly-emerging public response to the treatment of asylum seekers.

An image that calls up many responses - in each of us.  Courtesy SMH.
This new public response comes as the “here come the boats” issue is dragged into the political arena once again, as the government reopens the isolated Nauru detention centre.

Yet the response does not look like the freshly-minted righteous anger – for or against - we first witnessed.

Simply, many of us are now prepared to admit solutions like incarceration on Nauru are cruel.  And many of us are also prepared to let it go.  

It causes us genuine anguish to see these ordinary yet determined people placed in a proto-jail.  But our distress makes us want to look away, and hope the issue will die down or simply go away.

These are the threads I am sensing.

Firstly, many of us have built up empathy for refugees and asylum seekers.  Most Australians are now more likely to take a refugee into their home, or give them a chance at a job.

Secondly, our national response does embarrass a surprising amount of us.  “Fortress Australia,” sneered another Q&A tweet.  “The rest of the world is laughing at us.”  I know, we know.

Thirdly, we will not take to the streets to fight against incarceration.

Are we accepting this new development because it takes it off the front pages?  That bringing back the Pacific Solution actually deprives the strident and vituperative nationalists of an opportunity to air their xenophobic views?

And here’s a fourth strand.  The articulation that refugees who arrive by boat should get no advantage compared to those stuck in refugee camps elsewhere, is popular.

It calls to our sense of fair play, even though many of us logically know that it isn’t fair.  It isn’t a case of who was first, and who is pushing into the line.

There is a surging mass of millions of displaced people all over the world, and they cannot stand in an orderly line like they are waiting for service at a coffee shop.

A refugee camp - Australians understand the urge to flee.  www.elpais.cr
And the fact that there are millions of people who would risk so much for a new life in Australia touches a deep-held fear in our national psyche, a barely-glimpsed dread we have held for 200 years and may be reflected somewhere in each of us.

As the tweet said, it is heartbreaking and complicated.  As well as personally confronting.

We could say “the boat people” matter is a fault line that divides people in Australian politics, but too many of us see it is a personal fault line within us.

On Q&A Federal Minister Peter Garrett bravely said “no one takes comfort” in the Nauru solution.

A more profound defence than that is impossible.  He could only focus narrowly on the simple retort that the new solution stops lives from being put at risk, and punishes people smugglers.

Singer Billy Bragg said on Q&A that “a country must be judged on how the weak and dispossessed are treated”.  We know we cannot meet this test.

That is another burden to put on our heavy hearts, but it won’t be enough to break their new hardening.
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Friday, 26 October 2012

Meet Campbell Newman's Political Ancestor


QUEENSLAND politics has flipped around in a polar reversal this year, and we’re still trying to get a grip on the churning state of the Newman State.

To explain it all to the Gen X and Gen Y kiddies, some of Queensland’s Baby Boomers are sagely pointing to Bjelke-Petersen as a political ancestor to the Premier.  

But history provides a much more vivid political doppelganger for Campbell Newman.

Perhaps the Premier Newman most resembles is Thomas McIlwraith, a mercurial Scotsman who was in charge from 1879 to 1883.

Both are engineers, both burn to deliver big engineering projects as political leaders, and their corporate-style political outlooks are surprisingly similar.

The question is: will Newman’s path go the same way as that of McIlwraith?

Let’s look at the similarities of the two men.

Early Life As Engineers.
Thomas McIlwraith. Courtesy Wikipedia
In Queensland, they started as outsiders – but of place, not class.  McIlwraith was born in Ayr in Scotland, and moved to Queensland at the age of forty.  Newman was raised in Canberra and Tasmania, and moved to Queensland in his thirties.

Their prosperous and privileged backgrounds ensured they slotted into Queensland’s upper classes when they arrived.  McIlwraith was the son of a shipowner, Newman is the son of two Liberal Federal ministers.

Both became king of the jungle after starting as engineer –businessmen, a breed not often seen on the political savannah.

McIlwraith was more the entrepreneur who formed pastoral and land development companies, and speculated in copper mining, brewing and sugar.  Newman is more the manager, once managing operations at the agribusiness Grainco, and was a consultant in “bulk commodity logistics.”

Both commenced working life as civil engineers.  McIlwraith studied civil engineering at Glasgow University, and Newman got his degree in civil engineering from Royal Military College Duntroon.  

And both carried their engineering enthusiasms into office.  McIlwraith’s great obsession was railways.  He started as a railway engineer, and reached his political Stalingrad when he tried to create a transcontinental railway through the Queensland outback.

For Campbell Newman, it is tunnels and bridges.

Engineering As Political Character: The Burn to Build
Here we delve into the “political character” realm.  Neither Newman nor McIlwraith are timid, and both display a streak of audacity.

Campbell Newman, copyright Brian Cassey
Both are firmly fixated on grandiose engineering schemes to deliver a political outcome, and both stick to these ideas in a strong, jarring manner.

And whilst both are advocates of private enterprise, they rely on the public purse to fund these projects. 

Raymond Evans writes that public debt hit 50 million pounds under McIlwraith.  This debt figure vastly outweighed the total productive value of the colony, and was the highest per capita debt in the British Empire. 

More than half of the borrowings were expended on railways.

At Brisbane City Council under Campbell Newman, debt has reached $2.1 billion whilst revenue sits at $2 billion, leaving Council with a debt / revenue ratio of over 100%.

Political Outlook and Philosophy
Besides their drive to deliver expensive civil engineering projects as political panaceas, there are many striking similarities is in their political philosophies.

One.  Both see the business of government as helping business.  Raymond Evans describes how McIlwraith “facilitated the entry of corporate capitalism into the colony with his expansive laissez faire approach”.

Like his antecedent, Newman certainly wants to rein in government so as to unleash business activity.  He favours removing strictures from the EPA and other government agencies on land development.

Two.  There is a strange lack of empathy for Struggle Street.  It was written that McIlwraith “lacked that burning sense of humanity and passion against injustice”, and instead was committed to a narrowly conceived notion of success built on business enterprise.

It was Housing Minister Flegg, not Newman, who sent out brusque and ill-judged letters to public housing tenants stating they may have to share or look at moving.

But the fact that Newman made no empathetic response to the subsequent furore (did he think it was a good idea or did he even care?) convinced many public housing tenants that they simply did not register on Newman’s political radar.

Both Premiers are judged not for actual statements they made, but the lack of them.

Those For and Those Opposed
Three.  For both men, the political world is divided into people for them, and against them.  Those against them earn their continual enmity.

Read the article in The Monthly by Nick Bryant on how Newman needlessly bristled when confronted by Greens in street campaigning in Ashgrove.  Byrant reveals Newman’s deep seated enmity towards Bligh, but strangely, not towards Beattie.

McIlwraith’s ministers were desperate not to fall on the side of “the outsiders”.  According to the Queensland Worker newspaper, his ministers would “count his approbation for anything they do.  They yearn for his smile … and his nod of approval fills and thrills them with the most exquisite delight”.

Sound familiar?

Four.  There is forcefulness in their political character, almost to the point of recklessness.  The Australian Dictionary of Biography wrote that McIlwraith had a “habit of getting his own way through sheer force of character.”

That could apply to Newman, who doggedly implemented and stuck with his yellow bike scheme, even though it will cost at least four times the $2.2 million over four years originally budgeted for it.

McIlwraith’s Fate, Newman’s Lesson
How it all ended for McIlwraith may be the true lesson that everyone is looking for here. 

He was first Premier from 1879 to 1883, and lost the election to rival Samuel Griffith.  Why?  McIlwraith struck political rocks as he desperately searched for innovative ways to fund his infrastructure and colonial development program.

He wanted to bring in “coolie labourers” and fund his transcontinental railway through excessively generous land grants to private railway companies.

McIlwraith was only defeated because of a split in conservative ruling class ranks.  Traditional pastoralists were horrified by his planned creation of powerful landed railway companies in their own fiefdom.

But he was also opposed by a working class horrified at waves of coloured workers competing for their jobs.

These were big, unusual projects.  McIlwraith was convinced of his own vision, was uncompromising, and was brittle when faced with criticism.

The criticism probably made him an even more entrenched proponent of his project, even when its flaws and economic failings become more obvious.

Strangely, McIlwraith can be characterised as having a crash or crash through approach, like Whitlam.

It is far too early to say if Newman has the same characteristic, or will suffer the same fate as these two predecessors.  But there are interesting similarities between them all.

If in future years we are looking at where it all went wrong for Newman, we may wonder why we did not pay closer attention to the career arc of McIlwraith.

Sources. 
A History of Queensland, Raymond Evans, Cambridge University Press, Melbourne 2007.
“Thomas McIlwraith: A Colonial Entrepreneur”, DB Waterson, in Queensland Political Portraits 1859-1952, edited DJ Murphy and RB Joyce, University of Queensland Press, St Lucia 1978.


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Monday, 22 October 2012

The Green Shoots of the Granite Belt


The mist and clouds were hanging over Cunningham’s Gap like a curtain.  We went past the monument at the peak, and the curtain seemingly parted.

Grey skies were whipped away, and we were in light and greenery.

So how good are Golden Grove's wines?
But the stage we aimed to tread was the Granite Belt wineries, on a day-long road trip amongst the light green of the sprouting leaves and berries of the viognier and cabernet vines.

Sharing the driving with me was Jeff, my Creative Partner at Wine Groover.  “Do we have shirts?” he asked chirpily as he got in the car at 5.45am.

We did tell our wives that we were going to interview the owners of some of Queensland’s best wineries.  The unsaid but glaringly-clear agenda was to wrap some of their finest produce around our tongues.

These wines are the centrepiece of the Granite Belt road trip, one of the most underrated tourism experiences for Queenslanders in our own terrior.  

A Quiet Red-Stained Day in the Country
“What strikes me,” Jeff said as we hopped in the car after one of the wineries, “is how quiet it is here.”

Having lived in Singleton, Jeff has haunted a few favoured cellar doors and tasting bars in the Hunter Valley.

The wine experience there can mean pulling up at crowded vineyard car parks, slotting in between busloads coming before and after you.

Then you line up at the cellar door bar for tasting, and try to get the attention of stressed and abrupt cellar door staff.

On Queensland’s Granite Belt, there seems like long spaces between wineries.  It is an illusion – you feel the verdant stretches because of the lack of tourist cars churning up dust on the country roads.

Although it was Friday, we were often the only ones at the tasting bar, dragging staff and owners away from bottling and administrative tasks.

This Petit Verdot just won Gold - again
Family Ties - And Trims the Vines
And we discovered it is a family enterprise in Queensland.  Wineries rely on family to staff them and work them, and dedicated staff members who seem like part of the family.

Indeed, fraternal co-operation amongst many players on the Granite Belt wine scene is another part of the Queensland grape skin trade.

Martin from Ridgemill Estates, home of one of Queensland’s best méthode champenoise wines, asked us where we were off to next. 

“Pyramids Road Wines,” I said.  His smile turned into a serious expression and he said in a grave tone, ”Warren is a good operator.  Really nice bloke.”   More compadres than competitors.

And Warren commented, in mock weariness, about working next weekend as a judge at the Australian Small Wine Show.   But I think he felt chuffed about being asked to contribute to his profession in this way.

A small grin never left his face, as he talked quietly to us with some quiet pride about his wines.

And this high-quality, half-hidden wine is the backbone of this local tourism experience.  Many wines are good, damned good, and the winemakers revel in the fact they are good.

Tourists meanwhile revel in the discovery of these wines.

In fact, I think some wine creators have perverse enjoyment in their secret knowledge.  In terms of marketing, once secret knowledge gets out, it creates a very desirable commodity.

Trip Out Now (Before the Rush)
Be warned: you won’t have to wait long for the word to spread about the Granite Belt wine experience.  Change is coming, and the busloads of day trippers will soon be clouding up the country roads around Ballendean.

I’ve met two vineyard owners who must have thought they were going to have a quiet retirement crafting some pleasing wines.  Now they are facing streams of savvy buyers, and a future stream of very (berry?) high expectations.

If you live in Brisbane, part the misty curtains of Cunningham’s Gap, and make your way onto the stage of the Granite Belt.  And make a real experience of it by getting road trip shirts.


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