IT IS a wonderful Queensland story. In the 1930’s, Mario Costanzo, a cane cutter
from Ingham, stopped in Stanthorpe as he travelled to Sydney.
He met Nita, another child of Italian migrants, and married
her. They settled onto her father’s
property, started producing grapes and making some wine.
They were soon selling it to friends, family and other
Italian settlers. That same property has
now evolved into Golden Grove Estate, one of the most awarded and recognised
Queensland wineries.
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| Ray Costanzo, Golden Grove Estate |
Now their grandson Ray meets Jeff and I from Wine Groover at the Golden Grove
Winery. Ray is slender and in his
mid-30s, his dark eyes piercing and seemingly weighing us up.
When it comes to wine, Ray Costanzo can be described as
passionate.
“The thing that drives me the most is getting a product onto
the shelf that is the best it can be,” he explained. “I’ve never wanted to be any else other than
a winemaker.”
In any conversation with Ray, you clearly see he is
determined to create a good wine and show how it can be done in Queensland.
I suspect he has only small patience for doubters, and may
not easily tolerate naysayers.
Other winemakers talk of Ray in respectful tones. The prize-winning record of Ray and Golden
Grove might well be intimidating for some.
Their record of pioneering Mediterranean wines that soak up
the sunlight is another part of their Queensland story.
His father Sam planted the once-exotic Barbera, Tempranillo,
Mouvedre, Durif, and Vermentino varieties, awaiting Ray for his return after
studying in Charles Sturt University.
Once Ray steps behind the tasting bar to pour some wine and
explain its lineage, he becomes animated with intensity and focus.
His 2012 Vermentino, a Sardinian wine, is partially wild
fermented and crafted in a richer European style, as opposed to Australian
sauvignon blanc style.
Although just four years old, the Golden Grove Vermentino
has won three gold medals and two trophies, and anyone eating seafood or pasta
in Queensland should get a few bottles.
As Jeff did.
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| Ole for the Tempranillo |
The Tempranillo is a Spanish variety that just loves the
soil and climate of the Granite Belt. “I
don’t have to fiddle too much with Tempranillo,” said Ray, “it gives me good
colour, flavour, tannin, year in and year out, through good and bad.”
The Golden Grove Tempranillo has won four gold medals in a
row over four years. “I make it in a
bigger, richer style,” said Ray. “You’ll
get that nice cherry, savoury taste and the tannins are quite firm and rich.”
At Golden Grove Estate, Ray Costanzo has the foundation that
allows him to take a lead and leap in.
And a big part of that foundation is the long family history of the
Costanzos on the site.
Go out to Golden Grove Estate and experience a small part of
this Queensland story.
For the full review, go to winegroover.com
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